How to Fix a Leaky Faucet?

Before You Start: Turn Off the Water

Look under the sink for the two shutoff valves (one hot, one cold). Turn them both clockwise until they stop. Then open the faucet to release any remaining pressure.

No shutoff valves under the sink? You'll need to turn off the main water supply to the house. Older homes in Florida sometimes don't have individual fixture shutoffs — consider having them added when you do any plumbing work.

Identify Your Faucet Type

The faucet type determines the repair. When in doubt, Google your faucet brand and model number (usually stamped under the spout or on the base plate).

Fixing a Single-Handle Cartridge Faucet

This is the most common type in modern homes (Moen, Kohler, American Standard).

1. Remove the handle — look for a screw under a decorative cap on top or at the base of the handle. Pry the cap off with a flathead screwdriver, remove the screw, and pull the handle off.
2. Remove the cartridge retaining clip or nut — depending on the brand, there's either a small U-shaped clip or a large retaining nut holding the cartridge in.
3. Pull the cartridge straight out — Moen cartridges can be stuck. A cartridge puller tool ($10) makes this dramatically easier. Or grip it with pliers and twist/pull.
4. Take the old cartridge to the hardware store and match it exactly
5. Push the new cartridge in (hot side on the left), replace the retaining clip/nut, and reassemble

Fixing a Two-Handle Faucet

1. Remove the leaking handle (usually the hot side wears out first)
2. Unscrew the packing nut or bonnet nut underneath
3. Pull out the stem assembly
4. At the bottom, you'll find a small rubber seat and spring — these are what wear out
5. Pry the old seat and spring out with a flathead screwdriver
6. Drop the new spring in first, then the seat on top (dome side up)
7. Reassemble

A seats-and-springs kit costs $3-$8 and fixes the drip 90% of the time. If the stem itself is worn, replace it ($10-$15).

Fixing a Ball-Type Faucet (Delta)

Ball faucets have more internal parts and are slightly more complex:

1. Remove the handle and unscrew the cap
2. Use the special wrench (included in repair kits) to remove the adjusting ring
3. Pull out the ball, cam, and cam washer
4. Remove the seats and springs from the two holes in the valve body
5. Replace all parts with the kit — don't reuse old seats and springs

Buy the complete repair kit ($15-$20) rather than individual parts. It comes with the wrench, ball, cam, seats, springs, and O-rings.

Where Is It Leaking From?

The leak location tells you what needs fixing:

• From the spout (drip when faucet is off) — internal cartridge, seats, springs, or ball
• From the base of the spout — O-rings around the faucet body
• From under the handle — stem packing or O-ring on the cartridge
• From the base of the faucet — mounting seal, or the faucet body is cracked (time for a new faucet)

When to Replace the Faucet Instead

Sometimes repair isn't worth it:

• The faucet is cheap builder-grade and over 10 years old — a new one is $50-$150 and comes with a warranty
• You can't find the right parts (discontinued model)
• The faucet body is corroded or pitted
• Multiple parts are failing simultaneously

A kitchen faucet replacement is a 45-minute DIY project. A bathroom faucet is even easier.

When to Call a Professional

• The shutoff valves under the sink are stuck or leaking when you try to turn them
• The faucet connects to the supply with corroded or unusual fittings
• You've replaced the internal parts and it still leaks
• The leak is under the sink from the supply lines, not the faucet itself

Expect to pay: $100-$250 for a plumber to repair a faucet, $150-$400 for faucet replacement including the new fixture. DIY saves $100-$300.